We need the following parts and will pay well, please EMAIL if you have any. R5101 SAD1024 SAD512 SAD1024A SAD4096 Reticon chips MN3005 MN3205 MN3008 Panasonic chips TFK BC108C and BC109C Telefunken transistors NKT275 Newmarket transistors S36999 or 2N5133 Fairchild transistors 2SC1849 or 2SC1849R Panasonic transistors CA3080E Harris or Intersil chips PEDALS and stuff: We have not had much time in the last decade to sell used or vintage pedals, so I am usually only buying them for our museum collection. Fuzz Face, any condition or original pots and other parts from old Dallas Arbiter UK models. A/DA Final Phase, Flanger, synthesizer. Alembic pre amps for Bass, 1N2 or F-2B Ampeg Scrambler and octaver. Boss : Analog Delay Dm-1 2 or 3, Vibrato. Digitech whammy pedal WH-1 Electro Harmonix : Attack decay, graphic fuzz, Big muff, 16 sec delay, Deluxe Memory Man, etc JAX Vibra Chorus Korg SDD-3000 digital delay. Roland SDE-3000, Dimension-D, Vocoders Ibanez old TS-9, TS-808, Flying pan, Analog Delays, Modulation Delay, WH-10 wah, Lexicon Prime time, PCM-41, PCM-42 digital delays. Maestro Theremin, Bass Brassmaster, Full Range Booster, Rover, echoplex, Rhythm and sound, etc. Marshall Supa-fuzz. Mutron-III, Octave, Flanger, and Biphase. Oberheim voltage controlled filter. Synthi Hi-Fli effects unit Uni-vibe Tycobrahe Octavia, Pedal flanger, etc. Voltz Chorus Vox Clyde McCoy, tonebender MK-III. Ludwig Phase II guitar synth. Tri-stereo chorus.
If you have something in the above list that you'd like to sell, send me a note.
It's hard for us to give much value on recent pedals that I can still buy new wholesale (and sell as new with warrantee). We don't feel right selling a used pedal as new, even if it was just used a little (you wouldn't want to but a new pedal from us and get one that was actually used).
We are mostly interested in something old or not available as we are too busy to buy and sell common effects. If it's still easily available, then it is probably best for you to sell it on ebay, my forum, or the gear page to get closer to used retail value for it, then you can buy what you want from us and you'll will have more money from your effect.
We get a lot of emails asking what a pedal is worth. We would be glad to give you a professional appraisal, if you send us detailed pictures of the top, bottom, and insides (circuit) so we can determine age, originality, and condition. There is a $25 appraisal fee for this service. Email for more info.
Here is something from Clay's Guitars web site, he expressed how I feel better than I could, so here it is :
When selling, I would appreciate it if you had a price in mind, but if you don't that's OK too. But it's always better if you've done your own research as to value. This way you don't have to "trust" just me as to what your item is worth. Just remember, if "Joe Vintage Guitar Dealer" is asking $1000 for the same item as you have, that doesn't necessarily mean it will actually sell for that amount. And if you want $1000 too, I probably won't be interested. It's just a lot easier for me to buy things from knowledgeable dealers than from individuals. There's much less hassle and risk involved.
Keep in mind I generally pay from $100 to $10,000 for vintage guitars I'm interested in. As would anyone, I'll pay more for stuff I'm looking for, and less for things I'm not really looking for.
A lot of people email me with guitars for sale and say, "make me an offer". I would really rather not make offers in this situation. It's not because I'm trying to get your guitar "cheap". It just leaves me open, and allows my offer to get used against me. For example, say someone states they have guitar X for sale, and request an offer. Say I offer $100. Then this person goes to some other buyer (usually local to them) and says, "this internet guitar collector offer me $100 for my guitar". Naturally the other prospective buyer will have to offer more. This puts me in a position where my offer is actually getting used against me. But if the same person emails me and says they have guitar X for sale for $100, I can either accept or refuse. If I accept, they have made an offer and I have accepted the offer. The only piece missing is compensation (me giving them the money), to make a legally binding sale. To me this is much cleaner and legit. And besides, it puts some pressure on you to be educated as to the value of your instrument.
Thanks for reading this (and thanks to Clay for writing it).
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